Your guide to the heart of Litchfield County:
Discover local stories, hidden gems, and must-know events.

The Winners are Frank., Good Eats, and Materia

By Charles Dubow

There are few rural areas in the U.S. where the happy restaurant reviewer could find such an abundance of first-class dining options to choose from as Litchfield County. Let’s face it, we have it all: excellent local farms, proximity to New York City (but not too close), sophisticated eaters, and a pool of talented young chefs who are excited about living and working in one of the most beautiful parts of New England.

In the few short years that I have been reviewing Litchfield restaurants I have been increasingly impressed with the quality and variety of food coming out of their kitchens. And while there are many favorites that have continued to dazzle over the years, the purpose of this piece is to celebrate the three winners of Litchfield Magazine’s Best New Restaurants 2023. Despite the number of well-deserving new eateries, the top three as chosen by popular vote are, in alphabetical order, Frank in Cornwall, Good Eats in New Milford, and Materia in Bantam.

I had the pleasure of reviewing Frank earlier this year for our annual food issue. Frank’s eponymous owner Frank Way has created a much-needed casual dining spot in the heart of Cornwall. Cornwall is hardly a food desert, of course. The superb French restaurant RSVP has been attracting gourmet diners for years, but reservations are hard to obtain and it is closed for most of the winter. Frank, on the other hand, is open all year, is more low-key, and its outdoor patio overlooking the Housatonic is the perfect spot in summer to grab an al fresco drink or a burger (and not just any burger; one sourced from a local farm and served with pickled red onion and a slightly spicy homemade heirloom tomato jam). Equally delicious are the Neapolitan-style pizzas, fish and chips, buttermilk-brined chicken and rich Devil’s food cake.

While I have not had the pleasure to formally review Good Eats yet, I have had a chance to eat there and it’s easy to see why it has become a local favorite. Located on the site of the old Dagwood’s on Kent Road, executive chef Kevin Deluca offers his spin on classic American comfort food—think burgers, wings, N.Y. strip, mac & cheese, etc., but with a nice little kick. The wings, for example, are made with roasted shishito peppers, tomatoes, and come with a choice of plain, sriracha hot, or hoisin bbq sauces. The selection of local drafts is also one of the best in the area and features beers from Kent Falls, Outer Light, and Counter Weight—as well as a nice selection of specialty cocktails from mixologist Johnny Torres.

It comes as no surprise that readers voted for Materia. Since it opened late last year David Di Stasi’s cooking continues to wow his customers. Di Stasi, who trained at the legendary Le Bernardin in New York and spent years cooking in Tuscany, is cooking arguably some of the finest Italian cuisine in Connecticut, if not all of New England. A Watertown native, he knows the Northwest Corner well and prides himself on sourcing from local farms. “Everything we do here is seasonal,” he says. “That was something I learned in Italy. When you use the best ingredients you don’t need to make food complicated. Fresh pasta, fresh ragu, and fresh herbs. Who needs more than that?” The emphasis on the best ingredients is the basis of the restaurant’s name. “La Materia Prima is Italian for the best raw materials. That’s what we are all about here. Keep it simple but delicious. So it’s a real honor to have been recognized by Litchfield Magazine. My thanks to all our supporters who voted for us.”

At this Torrington Italian Restaurant the Meals Always End Happily

By Charles Dubow

There is growing buzz around Torrington. Artists have discovered Litchfield County’s only city, which they appreciate for its affordable rent and urban vibe. And I am betting that very soon people will be discovering it for the superb Italian cooking coming out of the kitchen at Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccheria.

Located on prime real estate on East Main Street in what had previously been O’Connor’s Public House and, most famously, Dick’s, Geppetto is the latest restaurant from the husband and wife team of Carlo and Michelle Pulixi. The warm, welcoming space, which opened in September 2022, features a long bar, exposed brick, vaulted ceilings, enticing aromas, and calls to mind the kind of hip restaurant that one might encounter in, say, Park Slope, Brooklyn—which, not uncoincidentally, is the site of their other restaurant, Convivium Osteria. 

“We were looking to open a new place,” explains Carlo, a native of Sardinia who moved to New York in 1990 after training in Rome. The couple bought a home in nearby New Hartford 12 years ago where Michelle, an artist and baker from California, home-schooled their children while Carlo commuted to the city. “We are both from small towns. We knew we could do something special here.” Opening was not without its challenges, however. First they got whacked by the pandemic and then a fire during the renovation set them back even further.

Undaunted, they pressed on, for which eaters from all over should get down on their knees and be thankful. The food is simply outstanding—and, like the curated wine list, nicely priced. The whole menu is terrific but some of the highlights, to name a few, include the roasted quail stuffed with sausages, figs, and chestnuts in a port wine reduction; and char-grilled octopus, are just two of their delicious appetizers. Equally delectable are the home-made cured meats (Carlo’s father was a butcher); the amazing spinach and ricotta gnudi with Asiago fonduta and nutmeg; the bone-in apple-cider brined pork chop; pine nut crusted rack of lamb; and the formidable 40 oz. rib eye for two.

Book a table. You won’t be sorry.

geppettoct.com

By Charles Dubow

For years I would drive by the large white clapboard inn on Main Street South in Woodbury and think “Gee, I should go there for lunch.” But friends warned me off, saying the old place had seen better days. Well, that was then. Better days have returned. Today under chef and owner Michael Bates-Walsh the rechristened 1754 House is cooking some of the best food in Litchfield County.

A native Vermonter, Bates-Walsh had long had his eye on the property. “I’m an old New England guy and I fell in love with its old New England charm.” The building, parts of which date back to 1733 but which is believed to have first opened as an inn in 1754, has been renovated and has retained many of its historical details. The overall effect is an atmosphere that is light and airy, embodying a style that might be dubbed Colonial Cool. 

Clearly it is more than the décor that is drawing the crowds. On a recent visit the bar and tables were filled with patrons happily eating and drinking. A glance at the menu shows why. Not only are the offerings pleasantly diverse but also the prices are reasonable. But what really makes 1754 special is the food you get for your money. For the most part, this is a place for hungry eaters, where you could have a Martini, a shrimp cocktail followed by steak frites, all washed down by a decent California Cabernet. Or, as I did, wood-fired pork loin served with parsnip/potato purée over roasted root vegetables. This is solid American cooking but with just enough panache to make you realize a few bites in that it might be one of the best meals you’ve eaten in a while. And if you really want to indulge yourself, book one of the nine upstairs rooms, and have a snifter or two of cognac.

Book ahead for special Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve events. 

506 Main Street South, Woodbury, 1754house.com

By Charles Dubow

Litchfield County is blessed with an abundance of truly excellent restaurants. Much of the reason for this bounty is the excellence of our farms and the willingness of chefs to source locally, but it is also because our communal palette has been so much more sophisticated—and demanding. When dining out—or, as became increasingly popular during Covid, in—Litchfielders can choose from an array of cuisines ranging from Italian, Mexican and Greek, to French, Thai, Japanese and, of course, modern American. Now we can add top-notch Indian food to that list.

Opened three years ago along an unprepossessing stretch on Danbury Road in New Milford, Tandoori Flames offers an expansive menu of classic Indian dishes that will satisfy long-time aficionados as well as provide for the uninitiated an appetizing introduction to the food of the subcontinent. Despite the enormous global popularity of Indian fare, opening a restaurant in New Milford was still a bit of a risk. “There had been another restaurant with the same name in the same place and it was in rough shape,” says chef and owner Vinjith Vikraman. “Everyone told me that we would never be a success.” But, happily, recent visits would prove the naysayers wrong. The renovated interior of the restaurant is clean and airy and light. It was humming with the sound of happy diners tucking into their mixed tandoori grill and rogan josh. The service is swift and professional, and the food is delicious.

“These are recipes I learned from my mom,” says Vikraman, who has been a chef for 15 years and cooked around the world, including for Carnival Cruise Lines. He is rightfully proud of his butter chicken, which is a rich curry made with chicken in a spiced tomato and butter sauce. Like all dishes served here, diners can ask for their level of spiciness, ranging from mild to super spicy. Other menu highlights include vegetable samosas, killer tandoori lamb chops, Malabari fish curry, shrimp biryani, tikka masala and tandoori chicken. There is also a wide selection of vegetarian dishes and the freshly-baked naan is worth the trip alone. 

471 Danbury Road, New Milford, tandooriflamesnewmilford.com

By Charles Dubow

For almost two years people driving down Route 47 in Washington wondered what was happening in the old Hidden Valley Eatery space. Was there a new restaurant going in? When a sign finally went up announcing the arrival of “Flemming’s Hidden Valley Restaurant” a collective cheer went up. Residents of Litchfield County are lucky to be home to some really excellent restaurants and now we have a new one.

“I would describe my food as American with an Asian flair,” says executive chef and owner Flemming Brown. “I have lived all over Asia—Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and Japan—and that’s influenced how I cook. If you order the braised beef rib it looks traditional but it comes with a soy demi-glaze and wasabi whipped potatoes that gives it an extra twist.”

A native of New York City, Flemming’s family has a weekend home in Roxbury and she grew up coming to the area. She developed her love for cooking early on from her mother Lisa, who is now helping out at the restaurant. Like so many New Yorkers she moved out of the city at the beginning of COVID and decided to stay put. “I had been running a successful catering business but the pandemic just flattened it. I had always wanted my own restaurant. When the old Hidden Valley space opened up, I went for it…”

Sourcing her ingredients from a number of local farms, Flemming has put together an eclectic menu that reflects her culinary influences. Her vision is to have more casual food at lunch and then elegant dining at night. Highlights from the dinner menu include her soy-braised beef sushi roll with wasabi aioli, panko-crusted Chicken Katsu with a lemongrass glaze, and a three-cheese white pizza with her house-made bacon jam. A word about the bacon jam. It is, just like it sounds, absolutely delicious and completely addictive. She also uses it as an appetizer paired with Boursin cheese and, at lunch, on a seriously good hamburger, made with local beef and also topped with Swiss cheese, garlic aioli, tomato and arugula, served with her signature parmesan and parsley fries. Welcome to the neighborhood, Flemming!

88 Bee Brook Road, Washington, flemminghvrestraurant.com, 860-619-0027

By Charles Dubow

Thanks to the prevalence of fast food chains such as Taco Bell, most Americans have never experienced the pleasures of authentic Mexican food. This is unfortunate because there are nearly 40 million Americans of Mexican descent living in the U.S. today and for years salsa has been out-selling ketchup. Fortunately for serious foodies there are still plenty of restaurants, taquerias, and food trucks offering the real deal, if you know where to look.

One such authentic Mexican restaurant is Momma’s Tacos, located on Church Street in the heart of New Milford. Open only since November 2021, Alejandra Aguilar Gonzaga and her daughter Alissa Swantek are cooking mouthwatering meals with all the complex, smoky, spicy richness that characterizes true Mexican cuisine.

“I’ve been a professional chef for 20 years,” says the diminutive Alejandra, who is originally from Mexico City and studied cooking at Gastronomia y Sazon in Tuluca, Mexico. “For the past 17 years I had a restaurant in Middletown, NY. But then someone bought the building.” A friend told her about an empty space in New Milford and she jumped on it. “It is a great location,” she says with a big smile. “We are right across the street from the Town Hall. We are doing a very good lunch business.”

The restaurant itself is simple but light and airy, with seating both inside and out. Alejandra offers familiar traditional Mexican dishes such as empanadas, enchiladas, guacamole, and tacos, of course, but also more adventurous items such as grilled cactus (delicious) and pernil—which is shredded roast pork served with rice and some of the best beans I’ve ever eaten. Everything is piquant, fresh, flavorful, and absolutely delectable. Not to mention reasonably priced.

The tacos deserve special mention. Fillings include grilled steak, roast pork, marinated pork, chicken, vegetarian, chorizo, or tongue. (If you haven’t tried tongue before, I recommend it.) Each serving comes with three home-made corn tortillas that are wonderfully light and chewy, and topped with cilantro and onions. 

Open every day from 11am to 7pm. No alcohol served. Delivery available through GrubHub, DoorDash, and Uber.

17 Church Street, New Milford, mommas-tacos.com, 860-717-4577

By Charles Dubow

“You know it’s funny but our business actually increased during the pandemic,” Chef Chris Eddy tells me. “The logistics and layout of our property and the way that the cottages are spread out made us the perfect COVID escape destination.”

Eddy is the chef at Winvian Farm in Morris, a Relais & Chateaux hotel that has quietly become the most luxurious inn and restaurant in Litchfield County. Spread out over nearly 100 acres, Winvian offers 18 distinct cottages—ranging from a lighthouse in the woods, a two-level tree house and, yes, one incorporating a full-size Sikorsky helicopter—that cater expressly to a discerning clientele who, even before the pandemic, wished to get away from it all. “We had guests coming out with their families who had never heard of us before and now have become regulars. “

The life of a hotel chef, especially someone with Eddy’s high standards, is a demanding one. You not only need to attend to the needs of guests three times a day at breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as special events such as weddings and other celebrations, you also have to welcome local diners who are looking for a memorable meal. And then there’s room service.

But Eddy, a native Vermonter, takes it all in stride. He has been at Winvian since it opened in 2006 and has been instrumental in creating its world-class reputation. Trained in the kitchens of maestros such as Daniel Boulud and Alain Ducasse, Eddy says he leapt at the opportunity to come to Winvian and create its kitchen. “There was no playbook when I came here. I am so grateful to [owners] the Smith family. They have backed me every step of the way. I said I wanted a garden, they gave me a garden.”

And what a garden. Winvian’s garden spans 4 acres and grows more than 70 percent of its vegetables and largely dictates Eddy’s menus. “We have a new ingredients-based menu every week, which gives us incredible freedom .”

Dinners are prix fixe and start at $125 per person and the tasting menu is $150 (wine not included). The highlights of my meal, to name only a few, were a carrot-sweet potato soup with croutons and horseradish cream; seared tuna with polenta, olives, scallions, chimichurri and romesco; hand-made ricotta gnudi with spinach and sage butter; and a roasted dry-aged Pekin duck breast that looked and tasted like a perfectly grilled New York Strip Steak and which absolutely blew my mind.

Today, working with brothers Paolo and Stefano Middei, who are respectively general manager and mâitre’d, Eddy oversees a team of 40 that does everything from growing the vegetables to preparing the sauces to serving the meals—and it is all done impeccably. 

“Creating great food is the reason I am here. To me, fine dining has nothing to do with tablecloths or silver. It’s about how much love, passion, and research you can bring to a meal. We’re like entertainers. People come for the show and we want to give them the best show we can. It’s the greatest job I’ve ever had.”

155 Alain White Road, Morris, winvian.com 860-567-9600

By Charles Dubow

There are many reasons to celebrate the arrival of frank. food company in West Cornwall. First, it is only the latest new business in the village as part of West Cornwall Development Group’s project aiming to revitalize the local economy. Second, it has gladdened the hearts of those loyal customers who were fans of the food that frank. had previously been serving in Kent. Last, it’s really good.

“I call my food ‘elevated home cooking,’” says owner Frank Way. “I want to give people something that they will love to eat but that doesn’t overly complicate things or cost too much. But there’s always a twist. It’s not just a burger I’m serving. It’s a burger sourced from a local farm and served with pickled red onion and a slightly spicy homemade heirloom tomato jam.”

The menu is deceptively simple. Open for brunch and dinner Thursday through Sunday, Frank wants to make sure that for both weekenders and locals, from Neapolitan-style pizzas to salads to fish and chips to buttermilk brined chicken to Devil’s food cake, there is something for everybody. 

Frank’s route to West Cornwall was a circuitous one. “I was in advertising and brand consulting for years,” he said, and had worked with such clients as Calvin Klein, Martha Stewart, and Condé Nast. “My husband and I had been coming up on weekends to Kent and then a few years ago I decided I was done with the city, done with the world of advertising, and wanted a new adventure.”

 “I wasn’t trained as a professional chef. I’m basically someone who likes to cook for a dinner party. I want to treat people here as though they are coming to my home. My strength is hospitality. To me, food is love and I want people to feel loved by the experience of eating here.”

The décor of the restaurant reflects the ethos of the menu. Clean, comfortable, and charming, it sits opposite the Housatonic in an idyllic setting. Just the place to come on a weekend to decompress with friends and loved ones, sit outside, and have a few drinks and frankly good food.

34 Lower River Road, West Cornwall, frankfoodco.com, 860-248-3250 

Charcoal Chef’s old-school food and drink

By Charles Dubow

The roadsides of America used to swarm with restaurants promising in neon lettering steaks, chops, and cocktails. In these post-cholesterol times, though, such establishments have given way to more ecumenical fare. We modern diners demand the organic, the grass-fed, the exotic, and the new to stimulate our jaded palettes. Fortunately, for those who continue to hanker for such classics as a char-broiled New York Strip, breaded shrimp, St. Louis ribs, pork chops, a hamburger with all the fixings, an ice cream sundae or a dry Martini, there are still places like Woodbury’s Charcoal Chef.

On a recent visit to the Charcoal Chef I was glad to see the parking lot was full of every type of vehicle from Range Rovers to pickup trucks. Inside, the restaurant was packed. Families and couples on a night out filled the tables in the dining room. They don’t come here for the décor (which hasn’t changed in decades), the exquisite table ware (the napkins are paper), or the wine list (which is modest at best). There is nothing here to appeal to a food snob. There is no Wagyu beef, Fiddlehead ferns, or aged balsamic vinegar. But there is good, old-fashioned stick-to-your-ribs cooking that will gratify your taste buds as much as your bank account.

Opened in 1956 as a drive-in truck stop, today the Charcoal Chef is run by Judy Doran—daughter of the original owners Bob and Vee Sanderson—and her daughter Mikey Wescott. (Judy handles the day shift and Mikey does nights.) At any given time, the restaurant will be staffed by various members of their family or long-time staffers who all make a point to make guests feel welcome. And many of their patrons have been coming here for years. Carolyn Klemm, of Klemm Real Estate, is such a fan of their excellent fried chicken that she orders it for her famous parties. “I have been going there for over 40 years and love it.”

So come and bring an appetite. You will love it too. 

Charcoal Chef
670 Main St., North, Woodbury
203-263-2538

By Charles Dubow

One of the odder sights during the height of Covid—a time when we were becoming accustomed to odd sights on an all-too frequent basis—was driving down Route 202 in Marbledale and seeing an empty parking lot in front of The White Horse Country Pub. That’s because as anyone who has ever driven through Marbledale knows, on a normal day the parking lot of The White Horse—not to mention the lot across the street—is usually packed from lunch through dinner with cars and motorcycles belonging to patrons who have come from all over to eat and drink. 

Litchfield does not want for pubs but the award-winning White Horse is in a class by itself. Whether because of its location along a busy road, its charming décor, or the quality of its food, The White Horse is clearly one of the most popular restaurants in the county. 

It’s not hard to see why. With Covid restrictions having eased, The White Horse is once again packed. In one of its three dining rooms or four patios, families gather, birthdays are celebrated in front of the fireplace, young couples canoodle in booths, at the bar fans line up to grab a beer and watch football, and the wait staff whiz by wielding trays of food and drinks. 

The long and customer-friendly menu is also one of the reasons for its ongoing popularity. Fancy a traditional British pub meal? The Shepherd’s Pie, Bangers and Mash, and Fish and Chips—all washed down with English ales such as Bass or Old Speckled Hen—are the best around. Of course, if you want a burger, The White Horse has one to suit every palate; including, but not limited to, its classic pub burger, its Akaushi burger—8 oz. of Wagyu beef—and, for heat-seekers, its Red Knight Fire burger, complete with fire-roasted jalapenos and poblano chilies. (It even has a veggie burger made of quinoa, black bean, sunflower seeds, vegetables & herbs.) Steak lovers won’t be disappointed with its char-grilled 12 oz. Black Angus Strip. In the mood for something more exotic? Try the Persian Lamb Koftas, Chicken Tikka Masala, or Moules Frites. 

The beauty of The White Horse is that it caters to all tastes and makes everyone feel welcome. No wonder it won Litchfield Magazine’s Annual Reader’s Choice in multiple categories including Best Burger, Best Brunch, and Best Casual Dining.

whitehorsecountrypub.com
860-868-1496
258 New Milford Turnpike, Marbledale