Living Well in Litchfield County, Connecticut

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Chic Eats at Al Tavolo Wine Bar & Restaurant in Bantam
scott phillips

Chic Eats at Al Tavolo Wine Bar & Restaurant in Bantam

The owners of Arethusa Farm have done it again. As if mile-high
Manolos and artisanal milk, cheese, and ice cream weren’t enough.
Now there’s a hip new bistro.

George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis know how take things to great heights. The Manolo Blahnik execs did for their creamery what they instinctively knew how to do with those towering stilettos. Now the wait for the duo’s wine bar, Al Tavolo, is over. And it’s a table we’re happy to join.

The historic former Bantam Firehouse has been transformed into a comfortable, simply designed space that includes a wine bar, dining room, and seating in an outdoor courtyard, complete with a mural of a Tuscan landscape.

The small-plates trend is alive and well here, but there are also plates to share. Chef Dan Magill has created a repertoire of delectable choices, like the meltingly tender scallops with pieces of pork belly, and the delicate tempura squash blossoms. Naturally, the superb butter and farmer’s cheeses are made at Arethusa Farm. And for dessert, we couldn’t resist the acacia honey-yogurt panna cotta—although we were tempted by the beignets. The wonderful wine and beer list (no mixed drinks) gave us perfect pairings. Sure, our waiter may have forgotten a couple of items (and there was an unfortunate spill), but the service was attentive and excellent.

If you’re not in the mood to linger at a table, you can pull up a seat at the bar for wines by the glass, imported beer, and some thoughtful variations on a few classic comfort foods, such as a grilled cheese sandwich made with Arethusa cheese, heirloom tomatoes, smoked bacon, and béchamel sauce. Or a grilled hamburger with herbs, farmers cheese, homemade cumin-Sriracha mayonnaise, tomato jam, and pickled onions alongside a stack of hand-cut fries.

The bistro is only open from Thursday to Sunday, which works well for us country folk who really only come out to play on weekends. Opening at 5:30 p.m. might seem early, but it’s perfect for those who like to fit in a small dinner and a glass of wine before heading over to catch a flick at Bantam Cinema (just around the corner from Al Tavolo.) Closing at 9:30 p.m. seems a bit early, too, but we’re in the country, after all. Maybe, after a few meals at Al Tavolo, we’ll begin to take on the Italian habits of late, lazy dinners, and by next year at this time the bistro will stay open into the night.

Its location in the heart of Litchfield County makes Al Tavolo an easy 20-to-30-minute drive in any direction. And judging from the two-week wait for a reservation, word on this Northwest Italy–Northwest Corner mash-up has already traveled.

Arethusa Al Tavolo
828 Bantam Road
Bantam

860.567.0043

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  • Karen Raines Davis