May 2, 2026
By Charles Dubow
Photographs by Jim Henkens
Part of what makes The Pink House restaurant in West Cornwall so charming is its relative seclusion. It’s the kind of hidden gem that makes a trip so worthwhile, like finding that perfect beachside Caribbean café down the end of a sandy road. You walk in with modest expectations and walk away congratulating yourself on having just made a terrific discovery.
For years, tiny West Cornwall was somewhat of a food desert. To be sure, the celebrated RSVP is there but reservations are hard to come by. That’s why The Pink House, with its mellow vibe, open deck, and exciting menu (dinner and brunch), has been so welcome since it opened in 2024. When it temporarily closed in late 2025, it seemed as though yet another beloved eatery had become a victim of harsh economic reality.
Fortunately, the story has a happy ending. “We lost our chef and had to shut down for more than two months,” says Marina Muñoz, a former stylist who is the restaurant’s co-owner, general manager, and overall guiding light. “It was hard, but the community was so supportive. Then we were able to get CJ and everything worked out. Our team has never been stronger.”
That would be CJ Barroso, who ran the kitchen so beautifully at The Lost Fox Inn in Litchfield. Born and raised in the Philippines, Barroso’s cooking blends his taste for world flavors with the bounty from our local farms. He’s also the kind of chef who creates items on a menu that I would normally never order but which invariably turn out amazing. “I’ve always challenged myself to create vegan dishes,” he says. “For example, this spring I am doing a simple fava bean hummus served with pickled vegetables, and house-made chips seasoned with West Cornwall spice, which is my take on Old Bay seasoning.” He also makes an incredibly delicious sweet potato mash with brown butter, Aleppo pepper, thyme, and hazelnuts. Just wow.
Other highlights from the menu are a lobster and crab croquette with ramp aioli and a simple herb salad; a garam masala roasted half-chicken with new potatoes, asparagus, and peas with spring onion salsa verde; and a Moroccan beef stew, with potato gnocchi, spring vegetables, and mustard frills, made with a warmly aromatic North African spice blend called ras el hanout that combines cumin, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, and ginger. Of course, if you are in the mood for something a bit less exotic, order the smash burger with rosemary fries and garlic aioli. Seriously good.
And while I would never advise against anyone ordering one of bartender Ashley’s excellent Martinis, with many people drinking less alcohol these days, Muñoz has put more emphasis on mocktails and tea. “We offer these incredible loose-leaf blends from In Pursuit of Tea, which you can enjoy here or buy from our pantry,” she says. “See this Lapsang Souchong? It’s from the Tengmu Reserve, which is the region in China where the tea was originally grown.” A morning coffee service now runs Monday and Wednesday through Friday. Bring a laptop. Stay awhile.
The Pink House, 34 Lower River Rd., West Cornwall—thepinkhousect.com
