Bill Fore is a curator of wines and spirits, and a local legend in the Litchfield Hills. From his New Preston shop, this man for all seasons offers helpful advice on wine, beer, and life.
There’s no question that wine expert Bill Fore can solve just about any quandary you might have concerning wine and spirits (or what to cook for your dinner party, for that matter). His vast knowledge of the grape and of all things culinary, which he shares with a smile and a quick wit (what else would you expect from a man born in a town called Happy?) have made Bill the expert that Litchfield Hills wine and spirits lovers turn to time and again. A visit to County Wine & Spirits may find you greeted by Bill’s dog Dash, a friendly fixture in the shop. And by the time you leave, you have not only the perfect pairing for your meal, but the feeling a trusted friend helped you select it. We sat down with Bill recently to talk about his life, career, and what makes the work he does such a labor of love.
Tell us a bit about your background. Where are you from? Where were you educated?
Bill: I’d like to claim a thoughtful, focused, multidisciplinary philosophy, but the term “checkered past” is probably more accurate. Native of Happy, Texas; grew up in San Antonio, always wanted to be an architect and took a degree in design at Texas A&M University in 1974. But by that time I’d fallen in love with cooking. I went to The Culinary Institute of America, and then began my restaurant career in Boulder, Colorado. In 1980 I returned to the CIA, where I taught for two years – menu planning and facilities design, purchasing and product management, and supervisory skills. This is also where I met my life long partner (now husband) Joe Loose, and in 1982 we moved to Hartford. There, with two business partners I designed and launched L’Americain, a restaurant that is still one of the great points of pride in my career. 1986 – 89 were in Boston where I helped develop and manage a group of restaurants and cafes.
And how did you get to living and working in Litchfield County?
Bill: In ’89 we took a hiatus from our careers and moved to Connecticut to take a job in private service for a family. I was their personal chef and Joe managed the household. Together we produced beautiful entertaining and facilitated a very comfortable lifestyle for our generous and kind employers. During that time I also was an adjunct lecturer at the Swiss Hospitality Institute in Washington, and eventually took a full-time position there as Vice President. In the mid 90’s I went to work for a wine and spirits wholesaler where I created a new position, Director of Education. For nine years I taught the sales force how to sell wine in restaurants, and I worked with our customers to improve their wine programs and train their staffs. In 2005 I left the wholesale position and we purchased the shop that is now County Wine and Spirits.
Is it true you spent part of your career as a food stylist?
Bill: I worked as a freelance food stylist for a number of art directors and photographers between 1986 and 1994. Although it was never a full time passion for me, I enjoyed the challenge of adapting my food knowledge and personal style to the rigorous and very different demands of the studio. Another interesting tangent involves a couple of years as restaurant critic for a regional magazine in the early 2000’s. I reviewed two restaurants a month, but proved too candid for a publication dependent on the advertising income of my subjects.
How does having a culinary background inform your job as an expert in wines and spirits?
Bill: There are two hallmarks that I think distinguish County Wine: hospitality, and real working knowledge of wine and food. Foremost, we operate more like a hospitality business than a retail shop. The tiny shop is very intimate, and we greet most of our customers by name. Our small staff are all mad foodies and most customer conversations involve what they’re cooking, who they’re entertaining, and how they’re serving it. In effect, our hospitality reflects their hospitality, creating a mutual comfort zone and very loyal customers.
How long have you been the owner of County Wine & Spirits? Had you ever run a shop before?
Bill: This October will mark our tenth anniversary as County Wine and Spirits. Although I had a lot of experience in restaurants, hospitality, wine and food, and teaching, I had never had a retail business.
You are known for having “the finest and most thoughtful wine selection in the county and beyond.” How do you decide what to have in store?
Bill: Of course we sell a number of wines, spirits and beers that are well known and popular, but a large part of our shop—perhaps 80% —is a very personal, thoughtfully curated collection in all three categories. Our staff collaborates in tasting, which is my opportunity to continue their education, and I have created a monster. When we do it right, it’s no longer a question of whether we follow our tastes or our customers. The result is quality and value, and a knowledgeable staff that listens first then guides customers to make appropriate choices. I also have to credit my CWS colleague Aaron Pierce with the development of our remarkable artisanal beer collection. The breadth and sophistication of his experience in beer is equal to our wine and spirits collections.
How do you deal with customers who know little about wine? Do you enjoy the education part of your job?
Bill: My identity as a teacher is the dominant characteristic of my career. Joe always says be careful what you ask Bill. You might get the whole answer. Our first job is put customers at ease, then subtly encourage them to use the vocabulary they already possess to describe the wines they prefer. If we can do that, then there’s a good chance of helping make a selection they will enjoy.
Can you tell us about the portrait of your dog that hangs in your shop?
Bill: The painting of Dash was created by a local artist named Valerie Leonard. Our not-so-secret weapon for public relations is our dog Dash, who has been going to work with me almost daily for nine years. He’s an executive and only works half days now, but more people in our town know his name than mine. Which is fine with me!
You have graciously been the premier auctioneer at various local events. How did you get into auctioneering?
Bill: The short answer is I am a ham—just give me a stage. First it was St. John’s Episcopal in Washington, then ASAP Celebration of Young Writers, and many other requests have followed. I have started to limit these activities in fear of becoming over-exposed; part of my success is my amateur “golly, I guess I can do this” status.
What is your favorite thing to do in the Northwest Corner?
Bill: We love restaurants and we’re crazy about Community Table. We love driving the convertible around Lake Waramaug in the late afternoon in any season. We’re often privileged to enjoy dinner with friends in their homes—there is nothing a cook likes more than having someone else cook for them. And finally, we are nesters. We love being at home with our dogs.
What do you like to drink?
Bill: Scotch. But don’t tell anyone.
County Wine & Spirits is open Monday to Saturday, 10am to 8pm, and Sunday, 12 to 4pm.
County Wine & Spirits
178 New Milford Turnpike (Rt.202)
New Preston
860.868.2181
countywineandspirits.com
