Wendy Sutter Adds Fire to WFM
By Charles Dubow
Photos by Carl Weese
In what arguably might be one of the most agreeable ways to usher in the New Year, ever since 2013 the Washington Friends of Music (WFM) has presented a live concert featuring the gorgeous and soothing strains of such composers as Bach, Handel, and Vivaldi. But in recent years, longtime patrons cannot help but notice subtle yet distinct changes to these concerts: The program has now expanded beyond the Baroque, the January 1 concerts are now held in the Gunn School’s dazzling new performing arts center, and the artistic director is a statuesque brunette in a long dress playing the cello.
Called by TheWall Street Journal “one of the great leading cellists of the classical stage,” Wendy Sutter has brought a fresh new perspective to WFM. “My goal was to open up the repertoire, and introduce composers from the Classical and Romantic eras, such as Dvorak and Schubert, as well as Modernist American composers such asCopland. The challenge was reassuring two Germans that the music of Beethoven was worthy of their concerts,” she says with a laugh.
The two Germans in question are WFM’s founders and guiding lights, Hermann and Waltraud Tammen. The two former bankers started coming up to Washington on weekends more than 20 years ago. “We were looking for local musical events that featured classical music,” says Hermann, “but couldn’t find any. So we decided to start our own.”
Today WFM hosts five concerts per year: the New Year’s concert and, during the summer, four additional performances at Washington’s historic Congregational Church. “Our concerts have become a destination to an ever-growing audience of music lovers from all over Connecticut,” says founding board member Charles Raskob Robinson, “and we couldn’t be more excited to have Wendy bring it to new heights.”
“In 2022 we felt it was time to take a more professional approach and attract a new audience,” says Waltraud. “That’s why we approached Wendy. She is a renowned cellist and connected with many musicians. We asked her to organize a few concerts and were so impressed that we invited her to come on full time.”
Sutter continues to have a rich career playing with such orchestras as the New York Philharmonic and the Shanghai Symphony. (To list all the orchestras she has soloed with would take up more space than this article is allotted. Rest assured, it’s impressive.) “The chance to curate performances and work with musicians of my own choosing is what really attracted me to WFM,” says the Juilliard grad. “It’s like being in a candy store for me—but it’s also a lot of work. We are professional musicians who only get a few weeks off per year. So we have to coordinate schedules, and arrange rehearsals and transportation. One of the nicest things about playing in Washington, though, is that we don’t simply slip out the back door, like we do after most performances. It’s been lovely getting to know the people here. I feel really blessed that Hermann and Waltraud reached out to me.” —washingtonct4music.blogspot.com
We’ve put together a list of 100 things to do this summer—whether you live or vacation here—these are ways to make the most of your summer!
By Allie Steers, Harry Harwood, and Julia McMurray
Litchfield County has been a summer retreat for many for generations. The beautiful scenic views, numerous lakes and waterways, variety of restaurants, and strong art scene makes for a memorable summer. We’ve put together a list of 100 things to do this summer—whether you live or vacation in Litchfield County—here are some ways to make the most of your summer!
1. Paddle a six or ten mile section of the Housatonic River with Clarke Outdoors in West Cornwall. Open by appointment only.
2. Stop by the Woodbury Lions Club’s annual Car Show and Summerfest in Hollow Park on June 2nd from 9 AM- 3PM!
3. Hike the Roxbury Land Trust trails. There are over 32 preserves with 30 miles of hiking trails, historical landmarks, and quiet places to enjoy Roxbury’s scenery.
4. See all the waterfalls in Litchfield County. Do go chasing waterfalls.
5. Pop into Litchfield Distillery and take a short and interesting tour of their facility and sample their award-winning spirits. The tours and tastings are free. Booking in advance on litchfielddistillery.com is encouraged. Make sure to try their newest Agave selection and their summer vodkas—blueberry and strawberry.
6. Experience some of the most idyllic country roads in our area on bikes. Covered Bridge Electric Bike in Cornwall has a variety of e-bikes for rent and will fit you for your size and needs. If you go, be sure to check out the scenic route along the river to Falls Village. Book your custom or group E-Bike tour with area adventure leaders at KC&E!
Covered Bridge Electric Bike
7. Hike the trails at Steep Rock Preserve in Washington. There are trails for all ages and levels of experience. Find the historic Holiday House trail, go up the mountain to enjoy a beautiful vista, or hike through the old tunnel carved through rock for a long ago train route.
8. Grab a cup of coffee and a bite to eat in Washington after a hike at one of these charming cafes.
14. Tour the historical places in Torrington, including the John Brown birthplace site, Torrington Historical Society. Visit the newly developed walking area in downtown, the art galleries, and numerous restaurants including Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccheria to check out their outdoor patio style seating and outstanding, authentic Italian food!
15. Visit the Eric Sloane Museum in Kent. View his paintings, illustrations, and collection of early American hand tools. While there, walk next store to the Connecticut Antique Machinery Association for a look at historical trains, tractors, a fully restored 19th century schoolhouse, and mining/mineral museum.
16. Relax and listen to live music at South Farms’ Summer Socials every Thursday night from 5-8 PM throughout June-September. There will be live music, food trucks, local beer, and more. Be sure to check out the new Boardwalk that was built at South Farms this summer! Walk over to Pasture Food Truck park for more food, cocktail options, and enjoy the growing flower fields and views on Thursday night Social nights.
17. Head to 100 Main Street in Falls Village curated by Bunny Williams and Christina van Hengel for one-of-a-kind products made by local artisans.
18. Feel like you are getting away to France at one of these French restaurants:
20.Woodbury is home to some cute gift shops and antique shops.
Shop Cathy B has summer essentials for women; accessories; baby clothing, gifts, and accessories.
The Hidden Acorn offers vintage furniture, antiques, and restoration products.
George Champion Modern Shop features 20th century American, Italian, and Scandinavian furniture and objects.
The Hidden Acorn
21. Take advantage of seasonal outdoor restaurants. West Shore Seafood in Bantam has mouthwatering seafood and a garden area or seasonal tent. If you like a drive-up experience, Gooseboro Drive-In in Bantam serves up traditional food like hotdogs and hamburgers. Popey’s in Morris is a local favorite with picnic tables and glider swings. Head to New Milford for Clamp’s–a traditional hamburger stand with a casual atmosphere. Newly opened, Pasture in Morris is Litchfield County’s first food park combining a BBQ + Taco truck with a wickedly creative ice cream business and wood fired mobile bar.
22.The Institute for American Indians in Washington offers many educational programs to engage learners of all ages and create a deeper understanding of Native American history.
23.Immerse yourself in creative collaborations and conversations at Spring Hill Arts Gathering multi-day event, June 22-25. There will be many different public programs that connect artists with nature
25. Let’s go antiquing! You are bound to find something you love at one of these popular places:
RT Facts in Kent specializes in classical antiques, custom furniture, and industrial-inspired furniture.
The Hunt in New Milford has something for everyone with a vast selection of vintage, antique, farmhouse, boho, and other home staples.
Dawn Hill Antiques in New Preston specializes in Swedish antique painted furniture and clocks; antique lighting; garden antiques; and 19th century ceramics.
Charles Haver Antiques in Roxbury offers carefully selected antiques with a focus on Country Americana of the 18th and 19th centuries, and selective European Antiques.
Housatonic Trading in Bantam offers fine art, antiques, home furnishings, objet d’art, and other finds.
26. If you love beautiful landscapes, be sure to visit the Hollister House Garden in Washington. The gardens, open to the public, complement the 18th century house, barns, and outbuildings.
27. Starting June 21st, kids can explore their creativity at the Kids Lego Club offered every Friday afternoon from 1:30-2:30 pm at the Oliver Wolcott Library!
28. Find that perfect piece you’ve been searching for at a local Flea Market. Be sure to check each website for updated information. Elephant’s Trunk in New Milford; Woodbury Flea Market; and Bethlehem Indoor Flea Market.
29. Gardening enthusiasts, stop by White Flower Farm in Morris. Not only do they have a variety of plants but they have beautiful display gardens to inspire you.
30. Pick your own berries and fruits at March Farm in Bethlehem and grab a fresh baked pie at their farm store & bakery.
March Farm
31. Kayak and paddleboard in Bantam Lake, the largest natural lake in Connecticut covering 947 acres. There are two launches, Beverly’s Marina at the corner of Rt. 209 and Palmer Road in Morris, or White Memorial Family Campground Launch.
32. Visit Kent Falls Brewery, part of Camps Road Farm—a 50 acre diversified farm in Kent. The most recent addition to their operation is their tasting room. Visitors can learn about the process in detail while sipping on some great beer. Children will love visiting with their pigs and chickens.
33. Spend a day at Lime Rock Park in Lakeville. Sign up for a driving program or check out their special events such as their Historical Festival 41 held over Labor Day weekend.
34. Cool off after a hot summer day at Farmington River Tubing and enjoy a 2.5 mile ride down the wild and scenic Farmington River.
35.Community Table located in New Preston is recognized for its acclaimed food and cocktails, is a great place to meet with friends, celebrate, or dine solo this summer. Don’t miss Burger Night on Monday nights!
36. What’s better than warm summer nights accompanied by live music? March FarmsFriends Friday will be nights you don’t want to miss out on.
37. Stop by a local farmers market. We have many in our county!
38. Picnic at Topsmead State Forest in Litchfield. Topsmead offers 510 acres of forests and meadows. There is plenty of space for social distancing, walking, picnicking, and bird watching at this beautiful former estate of Edith Morton Chase.
40. Calling all Gilmore Girls fans, join a stitch circle or book a private lesson at Stars Hollow Yarns in Washington, a yarn shop inspired by the community in the fictional town of Stars Hollow.
41. Check out the hamlet in Warren. Go shopping at WKND in Warren, filled with upscale men’s and women’s clothing, children’s clothing, and gifts for home. There is something for everyone. Afterwards, enjoy a bit of lunch outside at Warren General Store.
42. The land behind the Tapping Reeve Law School is the perfect place for relaxing and learning. It features a children’s garden, education pavilion, small orchard, and more. The meadow is open from dawn to dusk.
43. Taco Heaven at El Camion in Woodbury! Voted best in CT by numerous publications and one of the best places to get tacos in the county—their tacos are made with locally grown produce and fresh ingredients for healthy and original Mexican food.
45. Go fly fishing on the Housatonic. This river is known to be the perfect spot for brown trout and rainbow trout fishing. Call Housatonic River Outfitters for tours and equipment.
46. Visit a covered bridge. We have beautiful historical covered bridges in Litchfield County, and both offer great hiking trails nearby. Please note that it is unsafe to go into the water at any of these areas due to strong currents.
47. Check out Mine Hill Distillery in Roxbury and enjoy a craft cocktail while learning about the history of the Roxbury Station property during the Industrial Revolution.
51.Stop by the Torrington Watermelon Festival & Flea Market on August 3rd for a fun day of great food, refreshing drinks, lively music, and more! Make sure to watch Resty Nombrado carve the most amazing creations out of fresh watermelons!
53. Take a stroll through the Action Wildlife Foundation in Goshen and observe wildlife from six of the seven continents.
54.Evergreen Berry Farm in Watertown—pick your own black raspberries, blackberries and blueberries. Try berry juice pops and iced teas created from berries, herbs, and flowers grown on the farm.
55.Visit Beckley Furnace in Canaan; historical, educational, and beautiful place for all age groups. Learn about the furnace, picnic with the family, and surrounding areas offer wonderful photo opts.
56. Take a journey through the Naugatuck River Valley with the Railroad Museum of New England in Thomaston. Different train experiences are offered throughout the seasons.
57.American Mural Project in Winsted (Winchester) is a tribute to American workers and sheds light on what aspects have defined the country over the last century. It now serves as a way to educate and inspire people of all ages the many ways they can add to American culture.
American Mural Project
58.Norbrook Farm Brewery in Colebrook is fun for the whole family, with their 450 acres of land they offer hiking trails, mountain bike trails, and so many more activities. Try out their farmhouse style beer, lagers and ales.
61. Visit local parks in the area such as Field 1- Veterans Memorial Park in Watertown. It is part of the Where Angels Play Foundation and the playground was built in honor of Dawn Lafferty Hochsprung, Sandy Hook Elementary School’s Principal.
63. Looking to enjoy some time away from the city? Take a trip to Southwind Farms in Watertown, the 27 acre Alpaca farm with 50+ alpacas.
64. Calling all social media stars! Saville Dam in Barkhamsted offers picture-perfect spots!
65.Attend the annual Podunk Bluegrass Music Festival in Goshen from August 8-11! Listen to outstanding bluegrass acts, participate in family fun activities like tie dying and scavenger hunts, shop their craft and merchandise area, and eat some delicious food from a variety of options!
66. Support volunteer firefighters and EMS members at the Bridgewater Country Fair in Bridgewater from August 16-18. Stop by the many food tents serving tacos, ice cream, and slow cooked chicken and start the weekend with the Annual Bridgewater Fair Parade!
67.Take a trip to Guy Wolff Pottery in Bantam for some wonderfully unique pots made by local artisan Guy Wolff, who focuses on the architectural integrity of the pot and knowledge of the materials being used.
69. Take a break from everyday life and take a walk into nature. Explore the 106 acres of Boyd Woods Sanctuary in Litchfield. The Sanctuary is home to a diverse habitat. Enjoy the hiking trails and take in the wildlife.
70. Grab some food and beverages and make your way over to Litchfield County Axe House in Thomaston for a fun night with friends or families. Uniquely, Litchfield County Axe House also has a mobile axe-throwing trailer for rent.
72. Feeling creative? Head on over to Glazey Dayz in Watertown and paint your own pottery or glass. Perfect for birthday parties, a trip with friends, or even family gatherings.
73. Spend a few nights or longer camping at Gentile’s Campground in Plymouth. The campground offers hot showers, propane gas, flush toilets, a basketball court, and many more activities.
75. Get your fitness on this summer with Blue Boy Boxing Club in Thomaston. They offer self defense classes for kids and adults. They also specialize in Parkinson’s boxing fitness!
76. Looking to connect with local wildlife? Take a self-guided walk or book a tour of the Ripley Waterfowl Conservancy in Litchfield. Boasting more than 60 species of waterfowl, the conservancy welcomes visitors to admire their beauty!
Ripley Waterfowl Conservancy
77. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the show at Bantam Cinema & Arts Center, a non-for-profit in a historical building offering a diverse program of film, theater, music, and visual arts. After, head right next door to Wood’s Pit BBQ & Mexican Cafe to enjoy one of their many delicious meal options!
78. Grab a delicious meal from the food trucks at the Pasture in Morris! Newly opened, this location is Litchfield County’s first food park run by South Farms!
79. Shoot for the stars at the J. McCarthy Observatory in New Milford! Visit them for their monthly “Star Parties” and other events, or book a private visit!
81. Join the Arts Alliance of Woodbury for their 4th annual Arts Walk on July 20th and August 17th from 1-5 pm! Stroll along Woodbury’s picturesque Main Street and admire the artwork of many local artists.
88. Take a bite (but probably more) of fresh bread from Bantam Bread Company in Bantam! Pick from a variety of loaves and grab something delicious from their sweets and desserts! Dog lovers can also purchase treats for their good boy or girl!
89. Start your morning right at Jackie’s Restaurant in Bantam – whether in the mood for a stack of fluffy pancakes or a stacked breakfast sandwich, you’re sure to leave with a belly full of delicious food.
90. Attend a “Weed and Wine Wednesday” at Judea Garden in New Preston. Clear your Wednesday night to weed the vegetable beds at Judea Garden alongside fellow gardeners! You’re sure to be thirsty after that…well it’s a good thing you get to enjoy a free glass of wine next!
91. Sip on some delicious wine and enjoy live music on Saturdays and Sundays at Hopkins Vineyard in Warren! Tickets are free, snacks are available, and music is plentiful…what could be better than that!
94. Want to spend a day like Rory and Lorelei from Gilmore Girls? Hang out in Washington, CT to visit the town that inspired the show writer to create Stars Hollow. Here are some places around town that are reminiscent of the show’s setting:
95. Attend the Bethlehem Fair in Bethlehem! You can look forward to a great variety of exhibits, music, rides and food, from roast beef to fried desserts!
96. Cool down with Connecticut Watersports on Bantam Lake! Offering waterskiing, wakeboarding, tubing, kayaking, and more, there is no shortage of fun summer activities to look forward to!
99. Spend a day exploring Kent Barns in Kent; enjoy the shops, galleries, restaurants, and other businesses occupying more than a dozen buildings, including six restored or rebuilt historic barns!
100. Take a break from your everyday and stay at Twilight Dreams Farm in Roxbury. Not only is this farm an AirBnB superhost with 5.0 stars, but it offers the unique opportunity to stay on a working farm with a farm stand on site. Twilight Dreams Farm is also close to popular hiking trails, family day trips, restaurants, and other outdoor activities!
My name is Paul Pearson, and I’m the chef at the White Hart Inn on the Green in Salisbury. I’m originally from York, England, where I trained in various hotels and restaurants before setting sail for Bermuda, and from there to the U.S. I landed a job at Blantyre in Lenox, where I met my wife. Eventually we moved to Chicago, where I led the kitchen at North Pond. Wanting to get back East, we moved to Rhode Island, where I headed up Seasons at the Ocean House, and then on to the White Hart, with a two-year stint in the middle at Community Table in Washington.
1.What is your favorite produce source?
My go-to spot is the Sharon Farm Market. They always have a great selection of fresh, seasonal produce, much of it from local farms. Their fish counter is always stocked with the freshest, best-looking fish. And there’s a great selection of prepared foods. They also have a sushi station, and that’s a quick, easy fix for my daughter’s dinner.
2. What’s your favorite bread source?
Every Friday and Saturday we get a delivery to Provisions at the White Hart from Travis Brecher from Creature Bread. My favorite is the caramelized onion with turmeric; it’s pretty special!
3. What’s your favorite tomato source?
The best tomatoes, I believe, are grown by Parker Boal, right here in Lakeville at Green Hollow Farm. I met Parker in 2014; we’ve used her tomatoes ever since. She’s so passionate about them, and it really shows in the flavor and quality. She picks them in the morning, and they’ll be on the plate a few hours later for dinner service.
4. Your favorite dairy source?
We exclusively use Five Acre Farms, which was founded by Daniel and Patrick Horan. The taste of their milk is rich and sweet; we use it in all our coffee drinks at Provisions. It makes a great cappuccino.
5. Favorite meat source?
I buy any meat for a special occasion at Whippoorwill Farm, where we also get all our ground beef and top rounds for the inn. Robin and Allen Cockerline have raised grass-fed beef for more than 40 years. Their farm is on Salmon Kill Road in Salisbury, and it’s the most idyllic setting, definitely worth the drive on a Friday or Saturday to pick up a quality cut for the weekend.
7. What’s new at the White Hart Inn?
I’ve been putting a lot of work into the pizza program that we run on Wednesday nights. We purchased a wood-fired pizza trailer, which we set up on the Green on Wednesday and Thursday evenings. That way, people can gather, order a pie, get a drink at the outdoor bar, and relax outside.
8. What’s your favorite hike?
A great trail right in Salisbury called Lion’s Head. It’s around 2.5 miles out and back, with the last part a scramble up some rocks. But once you get to the top, the views are amazing.
Under the direction of new culinary director—and celebrity chef—Tyler Anderson, and executive chef Ryan Connelly, Ore Hill has hit its stride.
Elegant indulgence in Kent
By Charles Dubow
If you are in the mood for a truly Lucullan feast, I urge you to try the elegant tasting menu at Ore Hill in Kent. There are few restaurants in Litchfield County that offer such a deep and indulgent dive into all the natural goodness that our best local farms and dairies can produce. But be warned: Bring an appetite, because even though the portions for the tasting menu are moderate, there are enough of them to satisfy even the most heroic of eaters.
Under the direction of new culinary director—and celebrity chef—Tyler Anderson, and executive chef Ryan Connelly, Ore Hill has hit its stride.
Many Connecticut eaters will know of Anderson’s accomplishments. In addition to being a James Beard nominee seven years in a row, earning Chef of the Year honors from the Connecticut Restaurant Association, and being a participant in season 15 of “Top Chef” (among other accomplishments), he and his restaurant group currently own and operate several dining locations across Connecticut, including Millwright’s in Simsbury, his TA-Que food truck, and an eponymous catering company. It was under Anderson’s leadership that Ore Hill was recognized last year by the New York Times as the best restaurant in Connecticut.
Connelly, a Woodbury native and a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, has been gaining a reputation of his own, having earned his bones at such establishments as New Morning Market, as sous chef at Winvian under chef Chris Eddy, and with award-winning chef David DiStasi at Materia in Bantam until coming to Ore Hill in October 2023.
While there are many restaurants that espouse a farm-to-table philosophy, what sets Ore Hill apart is its connection to Rock Cobble, the 1,000-acre farm founded by the late philanthropist Anne Bass. The farmgrows heirloom varieties of vegetables, fruits, and flowers exclusively for Ore Hill and its sister restaurant, the more casual Swyft. Rock Cobble also provides beef from its Randall Lineback cattle and dairy products from its creamery.
The menu is updated seasonally. Among recent highlights were the Rock Cobble Beef Tartare “Pizza” with horseradish cheese curds and pickled sunchoke; risotto with spinach, morels, and parmesan; seared scallops with saffron, peperonata, and chickpeas; and veal tenderloin with Swiss chard, salsify, turnips, and pancetta.
To heighten the enjoyment of your meal,request the wine pairing for each course, designed by sommelier James Hopkins (whom sharp-eyed diners may remember from Community Table). His curated and original wine list features many smaller vineyards from both the Old and New Worlds; and many of his bottles are reasonably priced.
Connelly, who nightly helms the kitchen for both Ore Hill and Swyft, says that to him, “Ore Hill is all about focusing on local ingredients for local residents and beyond. I want to invite our guests in, and allow them to experience the flavors of the seasons.” Meal prices: prix fixe is $110, chef’s tasting is $145, wine pairing is $78. Open Thursday through Saturday for dinner.—orehillandswyft.com.
Look for the old factory, around the back, keep going, up the fire escape, second floor, and you’ll find it. To the Gills (the fish shop) and New Curds on the Block (the cheese shop) share a bright, lofty space, so tucked away that you’re sure you’re the first to discover it. (You’re not).
Fish and cheese are not known to “go together” but when the fishmonger falls in love with the cheesemonger, what do you expect. Zachary Redin and Kate Truini worked at neighboring shops in Greenwich and soon discovered many shared loves. As Redin admits, “I found myself going in and buying a lot of cheese I didn’t want.”
What distinguishes Redin and Truini is their devotion to transparency. “Would you like to see what the salmon eat?” Redin walks over with a bottle of brown pellets (from ground-up plants and fish) and pours them into my hand––like a sommelier pouring wine into your glass to smell. “The question should not be––is wild better than farmed? Farmed salmon can be equally nutritious if it’s farmed sustainably.” Redin’s are farmed on the Faroe Islands, halfway between Iceland and Norway, and kept on ice (never frozen) for the voyage to America. He taught me about pen density (lower is better), corn-free feed (good), and red dyes in feed (bad). Turns out devotion to quality, though, is at odds with a good night’s sleep. “I apologize if I seem tired,” Redin said, lifting a 12-pound salmon by the tail. “I’ve been up since 1 am to get to the fish market.” He does this weekly.
Two feet from Redin’s counter is Truini’s. She is a self-proclaimed “taste diagnostician.” If you tell her you love Parmesan, you may walk out with Moosalamoo from Blue Ledge Farm. All her cheeses are from the Northeast, and her goal is to open your mind to new ones. “In Europe, cheese is part of daily life,” Truini explains. “It’s not just for special occasions. If a hard cheese blooms [“gets moldy” in non-cheese speak] just scrape it off. Cheese is mold!” Truini declares.
Connoisseurship is a cornerstone of Truini’s mission. “You want to eat cheese at ‘peak deliciousness,’” she says, squeezing rounds of High Lawn Queen, a semi-soft cheese from High Lawn Farm, to see whether they’re soft enough or need time to ripen. “My personal favorite,” Truini muses, after being pressed to choose a favorite child: “I’d have to go with Ewe’s Blue, a young sheep’s-milk cheese from Old Chatham Creamery. It really should be a controlled substance.”
When you spend time with Redin and Truini you can’t imagine their businesses––not to mention their lives––not coexisting. They’re the kind of people you’d hope would drive by if your car ran out of gas. They also share a keen sense of humor: A sign on an emergency exit shows a mouse holding a flag with a diamond ring on it, which Truini drew on the one-year anniversary of their shop, and the day they got engaged.
As District Attorney Jack McCoy in “Law & Order,” the actor Sam Waterston is aggressively persuasive in proving his cases. As Sol Bergstein in “Grace and Frankie,” he’s the gentle, comforting gay husband of actor Martin Sheen, sometimes giddy, sometimes nearing tears when discussing an important issue.
Both personas were displayed on stage at the Housatonic Valley Regional High School in Falls Village last summer, only this time Waterston wasn’t acting. This was his real-life role as board chairman of Oceana, the largest global organization working to restore and protect the world’s oceans.
“It’s really the most important thing that I or any of us can do to change the course of climate history and preserve life on Earth,” Waterston says, urging everyone to join the nonprofit Oceana that was started in 1991 in large part by his close friend Ted Danson, the actor from “Cheers.” Danson, who graduated from Kent School in 1966, was “called to help the oceans,” Waterston says, when he was at a beach and his children emerged from the water with their feet covered in tar from the offshore oil wells. “That’s what led him to start Oceana, which he sees as his greatest achievement.”
Waterston has lived with his wife, Lynn, in Litchfield County since 1978, and they own a 250-acre Galloway cattle and Icelandic sheep farm in West Cornwall called Birdseye & Tanner Brooks Farm. While preserving land and raising organic livestock is important, nothing is more crucial for human survival than saving our oceans, Waterston stresses.
At his presentation, which was sponsored by the nonprofit Salisbury Forum, Waterston said his concern for oceans began when he learned that codfish were becoming extinct off the shores of Massachusetts, his native state. “The collapse of the cod fishery was the beginning of my own awakening,” he says, explaining that overfishing and oil drilling contributed to their decline. He spoke of New York’s Hudson River, which “held more oysters than all of the rest of the world put together,” until it was used as a dumping ground for garbage, sewage, and subway cars. He shared videos of the devastation humans have caused through careless disrespect of our greatest natural resource. “Each year, 33 billion pounds of plastic wash into the ocean. Sea turtles, birds, fish, and other marine life confuse it for food, or are entangled by it, and die.”
But Waterston went on to share the group’s success stories. With 275 policy victories around the world, including regulating commercial boats to stop overfishing, Oceana has protected 4 million square miles of ocean.
Many countries and American states have enacted bold plastic reduction policies, he says, reminding listeners to curb their use of single-use plastics. Even the Atlantic codfish is making a comeback, thanks to Oceana-influencing laws. “For the first time in 20 years, we have seen a successful year of cod, and they seem to be growing at a very good rate,” says Kevin Stokesbury, dean of marine science & technology at the University of Massachusetts Dartmouth. “Thanks, in a big way, to Oceana.”
Waterston asks that climate activists switch their focus to the oceans and become a “Wave Maker” at Oceana.org. “The oceans deserve our attention. They are 70 percent of the earth’s surface. They produce 50 percent of the earth’s oxygen. When well managed, they can produce enough wild-caught fish to feed a billion people a healthy protein meal every day of the week for the rest of time! You can tell I’m super-psyched about this! Oceana is a moving train, please come aboard.” —oceana.org
A Head Chef Reveals His Purpose and Passion
By Michelle Madden
Photos by Rana Faure
Community Table: The hip, locavore restaurant that is restrained yet warm, and where community is a religion. The dishes are plated on local pottery, the walls dressed with art from neighborhood galleries, the ingredients sourced from local farms, and the chairs warmed by sheepskins—well, OK, those are Swedish.
Bolivar Hilario, the head chef, brings this same sensibility. Within minutes of meeting, you feel his warmth, and sense the passion and integrity he has around his cooking and the community. “A chef’s personality is on the plate,” Jo-Ann Makovitzky, the managing partner, explains. “Bolivar is very personable, gentle, and cerebral, and it shows in his food.”
This is a second act for Hilario. He arrived at Community Table in 2016, quickly becoming sous chef (after working at South End in New Canaan.) He left to broaden his technique in New York at Chumley’s, Michelin-star The Musket Room, and Shoji––where he picked up a Japanese (cooking) accent. He returned to Connecticut via SWYFT and its sister restaurant, Ore Hill––soon advancing to chef. He has taken the helm at Community Table with a sense of purpose, and an eagerness to leave a mark.
“Every chef has a signature,” he explains. “For me it’s kombu dashi”––a Japanese soup stock made by cooking seaweed for four hours, to extract its essence. Seventy-five percent of Hilario’s dishes get a dose of dashi—a natural way of augmenting flavor and adding umami.
Hilario’s menu is built on a foundation of sustainably produced local foods, while pulling in a bit of French, a bit of Mexican, and a significant helping of Japanese. Take the Head-on Prawns (a favorite dish, though not always on the menu). The dashi is made from the prawn shells; the butter is infused with the dashi; the finishing is done on a Japanese bincho grill; and a Mexican hot guajillo chile oil is drizzled around the plate. The Heirloom Tomato Salad begins with local tomatoes and tomatillos (Mexican inspired, locally sourced), lying on a smear of buttermilk and maple syrup (French technique), while topped with a Japanese-inspired smoky gelee, made with seaweed, bonito flakes, vinegar and… kombu-dashi. “When people see this on the menu, and then see the dish, there is a big element of surprise. That’s what I aim for,” Hilario says with a grin.
“What inspires me?” the chef ponders. “Landscapes, nature. I created a dish that was inspired by spring days when green shoots are coming up––and then it snows.” Not surprisingly, foraging is also core to Hilario’s process. “Watercress and ramps in the spring, Black Trumpet and Pheasant Back mushrooms in the summer––you can find them in the woods around here.”
Spending time with Hilario makes you wonder if this strict adherence to principles is what actually fuels his creativity. In the kitchen awaits a trolley with aluminum trays stacked high. One holds freshly discarded onion skins (for making onion dashi); another––black charred onion skins (to make ash that’s sifted on top of lamb); and a third––something translucent-green. “Oh, that’s potatoes and water blended with leftover green onions and rolled out on a sheet,” says Hilario. “I’m not quite sure how I’m going to use it yet.” I look forward to the surprise. Community Table, 223 Litchfield Turnpike, New Preston. —communitytablect.com
On a beautiful summer day there are few more pleasant ways to spend an afternoon than sitting outside at a table at Hopkins Vineyard in Warren overlooking Lake Waramaug, listening to live music, and sipping a glass of their estate-bottled Chardonnay.
“We welcome visitors every day,” says owner Hilary Hopkins Criollo, whose ancestor Revolutionary War veteran Elijah Hopkins first purchased this historic farm back in 1787. “We also host weddings, anniversaries, reunions. It’s such a beautiful place, and we are so lucky to be able to share it.”
Originally a dairy farm, Hilary’s father, Bill, converted the land to a winery in 1979, when the Connecticut Legislature passed the Farm Winery Act. which permitted the growth and sale of wine.
“My dad was a real pioneer,” says Hilary, who today runs the vineyard with her husband, George, and winemaker Jim Baker. “We are now the oldest family-owned and operated winery in the state.”
Today they produce up to 17 different wines, depending on the season. In addition to their Chardonnay, other popular wines include their semi-sweet red Sachem’s Picnic, a semi-sweet white Westwind, a peach wine, a Riesling, a sparkling, a rosé, and a Cabernet Franc. Visitors can also purchase local craft beers from Kent Falls, as well as cheese platters and other snacks. All their products are available for sale in their shop or online.—hopkinsvineyard.com
A native of New York City who grew up in The Dakota and graduated from the Brearley School and New York University, Margaret Miner went on to become one of the outstanding protectors of the environment in her adopted home of Connecticut.She passed away at 86 on May 5. Her loss will be felt deeply, not just in her home community of Roxbury but throughout the state.Miner’s environmental efforts, accomplishments, and awards are too numerous to list here.
Her primary focus was on the waters that run through the state. Among her accomplishments,she helped pass legislation requiring a statewide water plan. She was executive director of the Rivers Alliance of Connecticut for 18 years, and continued her stewardship of the waters after stepping down.She was executive director of the Roxbury Land Trust; and was a vocal advocate for affordable housing and human rights, here and abroad. She helped protect funding for the state Council of Environmental Quality, and the U.S. Geological Survey.
Honors and awards for her came from organizations as diverse as the federal Environmental Protection Agency and the Connecticut Women’s Hall of Fame. Miner was passionate about her causes, but was also known for her wit and her sense of fun. Up to the end of her life, she “enjoyed playing poker whenever possible,” says her son, Nathaniel Rawson.
The Secret to Sweet Chocolate?
By Clementina Verge
Hidden away on a rural road in Goshen, Thorncrest Farm is a prime destination for chocolate lovers.
The Thorn family—Kimberly, Clint, and sons Garret and Lyndon—steward a meticulously maintained barn that provides a comfortable, relaxing environment (the secret to sweet milk) for their dairy herd. Open doors allow cross-breezes and encourage greetings from visitors.
“The most important thing we do here is care for our cows,” explains Kimberly. “We are farmers who happen to make chocolate and hay, but these ladies give the milk and cream, and our main goal is to treat them and the land right.”
Adjacent to the barn, a small shop grand in charm and creativity showcases bespoke selections handmade by Kimberly. Famous for its vanilla milk and repeatedly voted “Best Chocolates in Connecticut,” Thorncrest exceeds 170 varieties throughout the year, rotated based on season and the cows milking at any given time; each bovine createsuniquely flavored milk geared for specific chocolates.
Crafted in small batches, confectionaries exclude preservatives or unpronounceable ingredients. Fair Trade cocoa nibs, pasteurized milk, sweet cream, and butter are complemented by nuts, fruits, and spices that create unique and complex textures and flavors.
Whether it incorporates fresh mint from the Thorncrest gardens, citrus peels, ginger, hazelnuts, or organic almonds, every bar and truffle is a labor of love, sure to leave a decadent memory.—milkhousechocolates.net
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